Our blog from Botswana: Day 1 & 2. Maun & South Gate (Moremi Game Reserve)

Despite arriving a little jaded after a long flight we were excited about arriving back into Maun and starting our self drive adventure through Northern Botswana. However, we had a busy day before us though before we could totally relax! We were met at the airport by a nice chap from Bushlore who took us to what was to be our home for the next 2 weeks. Imagine our excitement when we were led to a brand new Land Rover, with just 1000km on the odometer! Bushlore had certainly looked after us and one of the reasons why we had chosen to spend a little more on an operator such as a Bushlore. Although not the cheapest operator you get what you pay for in this world and we have learnt the hard way before that using a cheap vehicle hire company can often be a false economy! Although brand new can also come with a few disadvantages as we later found out that day.

Maun is a small but good town and a hub for 'overlanders' and those preparing to go into the bush. After bidding farewell to the Bushlore contact we purchased our food and fuel for the next two weeks and visited the DWNP office where we collected our permits to enter the reserves. With most chores complete we headed 19km out of town to a small lodge on the banks of the Thalakame River and where were able to get ourselves organised before venturing into the bush.

The next morning marked the official start to our adventure as for the next 10 nights we would be camping remotely in the bush across various Botswana national parks. Our first port of call was to be South gate campsite, located 2 hours from Maun and at the southern end of the Moremi reserve.

With just a short distance on tar road after leaving the lodge we were soon into gravel, followed by bush tracks with pockets of deep white sand. We began to feel a sense of excitement as we started our journey driving into the wild.

Arriving at the gate after what felt like a quick 2 hours we showed our permits and were about to relax at our first campsite. Until suddenly we smelt the one smell you do not want to smell and that's the smell of diesel! Sure enough there seemed to be a small leak from the tank. Not a huge one but enough to be of some concern. This is where the benefit of Andy having previously built our expedition Land Rover came into some use as he soon established the problem emanated from the breather pipe of the long range fuel tank. As the vehicle was new it was likely a case that it had not been tested with a full tank of fuel. Andy was confident that after the level of the fuel dropped so would the pressure and therefore stopping the leak. A quick call into Bushlore confirmed Andy's diagnosis and minor panic averted!

Off we went on our first game drive that afternoon. Instantly the difference in vegetation was remarkably different to that of East Africa, huge tracts of Mopane woodland and scrub dominated the landscape. Incredibly dry and dusty the presence of large numbers of elephants was obvious. Huge trees pushed over, bark missing from trees that were slowly dying, branches discarded across the roads and a carpet of elephant dung everywhere. It almost resembled a post apocalyptic scene!

Whilst we knew we would not have the level of predator sightings we are used to in the Mara it was great to see other species on the first drive that we are not used to seeing, such as Tssebbee, Steenbok and Lechwe. The highlight of this afternoon was two Verreaux Eagle owls perched high into a tree. Contrary to the first statement of this paragraph we were lucky to see Lion, 3 males and a female, two of which were collared. Sat deep in the bush and shading from the hot sun.

Arriving back in camp we noticed our fuel leak had stopped and so this came somewhat as a relief. The night sounds in camp did not disappoint, two Hyena whopped in the nearby forest and generating probably the best acoustic vocalisation we have ever heard. The little critters came into camp and both were 'papped' by the night cameras we had set up. It was cold at night, yep really cold! With the temperture dropping to around 6 degrees c.

The morning drive enroute to our next camp brought us more cat sightings, two male cheetah spotted from afar (sadly no tracks taking us any closer) as well as a large male Serval that darted across the road. in addition a glimpse of a female Lion for about 2 seconds!, who was hot on the heels of a zebra into thick vegetation. Given neither reappeared it was apparent the Lion was successful.

 

Maun Town

Our hired Land Rover from Bushlore (with roof-tent/expedition equipped)

Our chalet, at a lodge just outside of Maun

View from our lodge in Maun

En route to Moremi Game Reserve

Dry dusty road into Moremi

South Gate campsite,Moremi Game Reserve

Game viewing around South Gate

Game viewing around South Gate

Game viewing around South Gate

Game viewing around South Gate

Spotted Hyena caught on 'night cam'

Giant Eagle Owl

 

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16 days, 3 countries - The next African adventure!

With just a few days to go until we depart it seems a fitting time to introduce our next African bush adventure. As a change from visiting our usual stomping ground of Kenya we are off on an exciting self drive adventure to northern Botswana, with a quick dip into Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Since our last trip to Botswana in 2005 we have vowed every year to come back, finally that year has come! This has been a trip thus far that has certainly been challenging from an organisational/logistical point of view. Booking the campsites was no easy feat but with lots of calls to Botswana and some perseverence we got there in the end! There were also logistics to consider in selecting an appropriate route and ensuring enough fuel etc. We are about to embark on nearly two weeks with no phone signal and no fuel stops. Self sufficiency needed somewhat! However, the planning is all part of the fun and where 'Mrs Skinner' comes in with maticulous planning! Or is it just a case of organisational OCD!
Starting in Maun we collect our vehicle, hired from South African based Bushlore. (Thanks guys for your prompt responses and assistance!). You may ask why are we hiring when we have a perfectly decent landy sitting there in Kenya!? Good question but with just 16 days available driving to and from Kenya is just to far. Therefore logistics determined that we would hire from South Africa and have the car delivered to Botswana, and Bushlore fitted the bill in terms of excellent vehicle specs.
We are in a geeky kind of way excited about our hire from Bushlore. Staying with the Skinner tradition we have hired a Land Rover Defender 110, with full expedition kit and rooftent. However, indulge us for a moment as this beauty is going to be a TDCi/Puma model, one we have yet to drive in the bush!
Ok, so that aside heres a quick snapshot of where we are headed.
Leaving Maun we plan to travel into Moremi reserve, home to the famed Okavango Delta and vast areas of bush known for good population of Lion and Wild Dog. Here we stay for 5 nights, camping in three seperate remote bush campsites in three different areas of Moremi.
Leaving via the beautiful Khwai area of Moremi our offroad journey takes us across the famous Magwikhwe sand ridge and onto the Savuti area of Chobe National Park. 156 miles long and 65 feet high, the sand ridge is the ancient shoreline of a super-lake that covered much of northern Botswana and will certainly test our 4x4 driving skills!
We stay in a bush campsite in the heart of Savuti for 3 nights, near to the reborn Savuti channel which flows once again after long periods of running dry. Here this area is known for its dense elephant populations as well as home to the well documented Lion pride who specialised in hunting elephant.
Leaving the plains of Savuti we head further north and deeper into Chobe National Park, camping at a remote site along the Chobe River. We remain in Chobe for our last three nights in the Botswana bush before crossing the border into Zambia via the Kazungula ferry.
As we reach Livingstone in Zambia we reach the conclusion of our 16 day African adventure but not without a two night stay and hopping over the border into Zimbabwe to view the mighty Victoria Falls. Having visited once before from both sides we both undeniably agree that its at its best seen from the Zim side. Having said that both views take your breath away and we cant wait to go back to see the 'smoke that thunders'.
As the sunsets on our last night in Zambia we are hoping to be chatting together on the banks of the Zambezi about 16 crazy, but sucessful days and 400 miles across 3 countries! (That hopefully includes Wild Dog!)
We will ofcourse be doing a blog during our travel but due to no internet signal all posts will be online once we are back home! Check back soon!

Botswana/Zambia - our destinations

Bushlore Land Rovers

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Andy's photos published in the Daily Mail online

Great to see a sequence of images shot by Andy in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park were published in the Daily Mail online this week.
Check out the link below for the full article and photos.
Daily Mail article

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Another previous sighting we experienced in the Mara is published inthe Daily Mail and Huffington Post.

Many of you may remember a previous sighting we blogged about in 2012. Check here for the article featured in the Daily Mail online recently.
Click below to read the full article
Elephants mourn deceased herd member - Daily Mail

Check back here soon for details of our forthcoming trip to Botswana....

Images published in the Daily Mail online.

Very chuffed today to have had a series of images published in the Daily Mail online!

CLICK HERE for the full article and Sarah's images. 

Source: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2280976/The-wrath-entire-group-lions-unleashed-lone-male-wanders-close-females-cubs.html

New Images.....

Having had a busy few months we have finally had the chance to start catching up on some images! Most of which are from our October visit to the Mara.  Click Here to be directed to our new images gallery. Thanks for swinging by and we hope you enjoy!

Captured on 'bushcam' and the conclusion to our African adventure

The stars of the show in the African bush are always the animals and this also continues into the night. Those of you that follow our blog through our African adventures will know we like to have a bit of fun by placing out night cameras where we camp. Here is a collection of some of the best that we captured on this trip. You never know, one day we may capture the holy grail and 'bag' ourselves an Aardvark or even Leopard. Whatever we capture, opening up the camera in the morning to see what we have captured around camp at night always feels like Christmas day. You never know what night time visitors have been skulking around as we sleep! Thanks to everyone who has made kind comments on our blog and have taken the time to read our usual lengthy posts! So until the next trip its 'Kwaheri' from the Skinner's and Kenya for now...

Spotted Hyena

 Female Dik Dik

 Female Dik Dik

 Scrub Hare

 Zebra

Our last days catching up with the Lions in the Mara Triangle

We have now arrived back in Nairobi after a pretty horrendous drive back. Which unfortunately included us being stopped by the police twice and witnessing a horrendous incident in which a young girl was knocked down by a vehicle trying to cross a busy highway, really tragic. So as Andy has the arduous task of cleaning out the Land Rover I thought I would catch up on the last two days of our Mara trip.

After leaving the 'Narok side' we headed to the Mara Triangle, a part of the Mara we always cherish visiting. Our mission on this short visit here was not only to catch up with friends here but to also catch up with the Mugoro Pride as well as hoping to see the Oloololo pride.

We camped again in our favourite place in the Mara Triangle, a place where you are exposed to all elements of the bush and where we can camp totally wild. For some this maybe the idea of 'living hell' as there are no facilities at all, but for us it is a wonderful place and where you can experience all of the bush sounds at night, often with many nocturnal visitors. Sure enough 'our camp' failed to disappoint, the first night was somewhat quiet, except for hearing the Mugoro pride roaring very close. However, on the second night we had elephants crashing around in the trees next to our vehicle and Hippo grazing nearby, although they failed to make an appearance on 'bush cam' but we could hear them as we lay in the safety of our roof tent.

On both mornings we found the Mugoro Pride at first light and had around 30 minutes with them on our own before other safari vehicles arrived. They had been busy on our first evening there as morning revealed that during the night they had taken down 3 Wildebeest and found them still feeding in three separate groups before they all formed as one group. It was great to see 3 of the 4 Adult lioness there as well as the 7 cubs (the oldest being around 10-11 months old). They looked in fabulous condition, not a surprise given the migration passes right through the core of their territory. However, one concerning factor during our time with them was that we failed to find any of the '4km males' with them and nor did we hear any males roaring in the night, except for just over the Mara river on Paradise plains. We know these guys had been seen in the last couple of weeks on Paradise plains where they continue to mate with the females. Whilst it may certainly be a case that they have just not been found it does seem that that the 4km males have been MIA in the Mara Triangle for quite some time. This is hugely concerning as yet again it leaves the females and their pride extremely vulnerable to any new incoming males which could even include the Oloololo males (x4) who would perhaps start to look further afield for additional prides to control. Given in all the time we have followed these females (since 2007) they have never been able to successfully raise cubs to adulthood we desperately hope this wont be the case again and we hope that the events of Nov 2010 (in which the 4km males killed all the cubs sired by Notch and Co and born into the Mugpro pride) don't repeat themselves. For now it seems the 4km boys are too preoccupied with spreading their genes over the river.

On our last morning in the Mara we were delighted to find the 4th Mugoro adult female, the one who appears to be blind in one eye. She was on her own and did look as if she could be pregnant, although I would not want to stake my life on this fact! So all 'Mugoros' (except for the males) were present and correct!

Having spent time with 'our girls' we also looked for the Oloololo Pride and although in our time there we were not successful in finding the whole pride we did see one of the Oloololo males mating with a very young lioness from the same pride courtesy of a tip off from our friend in the Mara. We spent around 1hr 45 minutes with this 'honeymooning' couple in which time they mated only 3 times, meaning that they were likely in the last days of mating (which generally lasts anything from 3-5 days and in the first days can even mate as often as every 10 minutes). The female was quite young at around 4 years old and she was quite a distinct looking female with rather large 'mickey mouse' ears! The male looked to be around 5, maybe 6 years old and a fine looking boy indeed.

As the heat of the day took hold on both days it was a chance for us to catch up on meeting some of our good friends in the Mara, although sadly our short time there meant we could not see everyone we had wanted to, if you guys are reading we are sorry!!! You can blame the wildebeest for keeping us on the other side.

With heavy hearts our time in the Mara had come to a close and it was time for the long drive back to Nairobi. Leaving the Mara always pulls at the heart strings but everything has to come to an end and I am sure it wont be too long until we are back. Our last blog soon to be published includes a culmination of the shots from our night time camera.

Mugoro Lioness

Mugoro Cubs

Mugoro Cub

Oloololo Lioness

Oloololo Male

Lion love in full swing

New males quite literally bump into the Rekero Pride

Still catching up on the last few days the next instalment comes from our last morning on the 'Narok side' on the 21st October and was certainly an action packed one. Quite apt given this is our 100th post in our blog! In fact the excitement started the evening prior when we had the who pride literally right opposite the camp we were staying in that night. Roaring all together as a pride, as we shone the torch across the Talek river you could just make them out through the dark but clear night. The sounds were truly amazing and the roars bringing goosebumps as they continued to vocalise well into the night.

Next morning we picked up the roars from the pride again, having moved a little further up onto the plains and this certainly gave us a good head start in locating them. Sure enough they had moved only about 500 metres away from their location the evening before and were mobile when we found them. The subs and cubs stopping to play every now and then. Their bellies still full from the gorging on wildebeest in the croton two days prior.

As they continued to move one of the lioness caught sight of some Zebra in the distance and she soon went into stalking mode, and was soon joined by one or two others from the pride, including one of the male subs. However, it was not long until the zebra caught sight of the hunting party and their attempts to hunt had been foiled. As they started to track back to the rest of the pride the sub male soon turned his attention to a nearby Hippo, still out grazing from his night time foray. Clearly this chap was about to try and 'bite more than he could chew'. He would slowly move forward to the Hippo and then would quickly jump back every time the Hippo turned its head and grunted at him. The sub would them try and move in again when he turned his head back. This quite comical interaction continued for around 5 minutes before the Hippo had clearly had enough and ran back to the river, not before he gave one last charge to the male lion finally making him retreat back the rest of the pride who all seemed to look on with a degree of disapproval at his antics. It certainly seems as if this sub male has inherited some of the 'Hippo hunting genes' from his Notch coalition 'fathers' (which ever one it may be that sired this male!)

The pride the settled deep into a croton and it looked as if they were hauled up here for the morning and no doubt the rest of the day. How wrong we were! Andy then cast his eye toward the Talek river and caught sight of another two males, just a few hundred metres from where we were sat with the pride. We quickly went over to check who these guys were as they certainly we not from the Rekero Pride. We knew that there had reportedly been another young male (aged 3.5 years and called 'Kijana)  who had apparently some association with the pride and was from Paradise pride but here we had 2 young males, who looked to be 3-3.5 years old, one with quite distinct black marks (looking like an injury) on the left side of his face. They tracked into the bed of the Talek and after a brief confrontation with some buffalo moved with haste back up the river bank and they were headed right for the where the Rekero pride were. They quite confidently moved through the croton and out the other side, right into the line of sight on the Rekero Pride, who by now were less than 50 feet away.

At this point one of the male subs from the Rekero pride saw them and his facial expression turned instantly, his eyes fixed with absolute concentration. After hesitating for a very brief moment all hell then broke lose. The 2 year old male subs, then followed by the same aged female subs jumped up and ran at the two other males. The males retreated, almost running into the Buffalo again and the Hippo that had not long had the encounter with the Rekero male. The adult females, followed by the 12 month old cubs (who didn't seem to have a clue what was happening!) followed the chase led by the subs of the Rekero Group. The two males then became split, one escaping back down into the river whilst the other male was continued to be chased by the pride. The pride stopped for a moment and started to assert their pride territory and dominance with a succession of roars while the male being chased paused for a moment to catch his breath. Just as we though the chase was going to stop it then commenced again and 3 of the subs continued to chase the male down into the river and up over the other side and then totally out of sight. By this point the adult females had relented in the chase and remained with the two younger cubs (12 months old). The two males who had literally bumped into the pride were now at least 1.5km apart. We lost sight of the action but stayed put at the edge of the river bank, waiting to see if the subs would return and give up their ferocious chase and eventually some 10 minutes later three tired subs returned back the rest of the pride clearly having been satisfied that they had rid of the 'intruder'. They had exerted alot of energy during the chase but for some time the whole pride remained tense and showed aggression to each other, the lions had become totally charged up for sure and clearly had a job to contain this!

The question we wanted to know the answer to was who were these two males?! We discussed between us as to whether it could have been Joys boys (who we have not seen ourselves) and had also asked our friend Jackson who was also at the sighting as to whether it was but he seemed to think not, a sentiment also shared by some others. Whilst other guides seemed to think they were indeed her offspring. So the question of who they are remained split between guides on one camp the two males from the Paradise pride and in the other 'Joys boys'. However, it seemed more likely they they were indeed the 'ex' Paradise males given there age, but to our knowledge unlikely to have been Kijana given that our guide contacts had said Kijana almost totally lacked any mane whereas these young chaps had a normal sized mane for their age. If they were indeed from Paradise it was likely they too were offspring from the Notch coalition

We had lost sight of one of the males who had been chased but returned back to the area where we had first seen them and to where the other male had ran to and there we found him again. He sat there looking nervous and displaced as you would expect, intermittently making soft contact calls in the hope he could be reunited with the other male that had been chased some distance away. Just a few moments later he then moved off and out of sight but in the approximate direction of where the other male seemed to have been chased of to. We really hoped that they would be reunited as two males of this age were certainly vulnerable, especially given they were still in the core of the Rekero Pride territory.

For sure it had been an action packed morning, we had struggled to capture any of the chase through stills as it had just been too frantic and happening very fast as the lions ran with gusto through the croton. It was not the time to follow too close as there was enough tension for the lions to be dealing with let alone a charge of cars behind them, but it was fascinating behaviour to see and although we soon had to leave for the 1.5 hour drive to the Mara Triangle we would be following the next chapter as the story of the two males unfolds.

Soon after we left this part of the Mara for the last two nights of our trip in the Mara Triangle where we were keen to find out what the lions on this side were up to.......

Rekero Subs first thing in the morning

Lioness trying to hunt zebra

Delusions of grandeur! 

The new males before they bumped into the Rekero Pride

Rekero sub male sees the intruding males

TIme for a catch up.......

It’s been none stop in the last few days and also the need to catch up on some sleep has unfortunately taken priority over blogging late int the night so this one is a bit of a catch up of the last few days in the Mara.

Notch made another appearance for us two days ago, we found him along the opposite bank of the Talek from the previous sighting and again with the same lioness as before. However, what we noticed this time is that the female was lactating and sure enough two very small cubs, no more than 6 weeks old made a brief appearance. So he had not been mating as we had first suspected but instead playing guardian over the cubs whilst making the most of the fact that the lioness would be hunting regularly. We sat with him on our own for 3 hours, 2hrs and 55minutes of which he sat deep in the bushes! Playing the family man again, grumbling occasionally as the cubs clambered over him in the croton. It seems as if one of the cubs has an injury to its front legs given it has quite a chronic limp. This does not bode well for the little one, given mamma lion will soon start moving them more frequently. It may be something temporary so we wouldn't want to write this one off yet but its not the best start in life for this little ‘toto’.

Later in the afternoon we had word from a guide friend that Bahati had been spotted , not too far from Rekero and sure enough we found where she was, along with a handful of other vehicles. She had been feeding on a wildebeest kill partially hidden in a small dip and then made a brief appearance for us, before moving into the croton after getting a little spooked by the vehicles. Given her location on this trip and the last one it seems she has taken up permanent residence in what was Binti‘s (her older sister) territory, signaling the fact that as suspected Binti is certainly no longer around, clearly having moved off or maybe worse. It will likely be soon that Bahati herself will start a family of her own as she is approaching the age of which she will be able to start reproducing.

The next day we again saw the most amazing wildebeest crossing. The second one of our trip. They wildebeest were crossing in two locations along the south Mara area, and given this, and the fact that vehicles were spread out along the two locations we were able to get a great position front on to photograph this amazing spectacle. At least 3 crocs were cruising along, at some points bringing the crossing to a stop as they blocked the path of the Wildebeest. The current here was strong and sadly causing some to drown and also several fell victim to the prehistoric ‘monsters of the deep’. So, although the day had started somewhat frustrating, given we waited hours for Notch and the cubs to show their faces it had turned into an amazing afternoon. Later that day we caught up with the Rekero pride, hauled up in the deepest croton possible!, and given the stench coming from the bush they had a kill and certainly had no reason to move! 

This brings me up to  the 19th October in which we took a drive down toward Paradise plains in the hope we would find the 4km male lions. Coming toward the area we paused to take a good scan around with the binoculars and then into sight came not one of the 4km boys but a Leopard! Just sitting on a termite mound and surveying the plains. It’s huge neck and build gave the no question that it was a big male and we figured it must have been the one named the “Paradise male’. Not being familiar with this cat we stopped some way back to take a couple of landscape shots. Leopards are in large very shy and we feared that if we moved too near we may have lost him for good. Soon we saw he was not phased by our presence, helped by the fact that there was no other cars around at all or at the sighting. We edged forward and then a few moments later he casually strolled off the mound and away from us. He moved off, into a slightly rocky area around around 30 feet away from us. We stopped the car, silent and patiently hoping he would track back around toward where there was more game, he had a look on him that he wanted to hunt. Fortunately he doubled back as we hoped, and then completely surprising us by walking right up to the vehicle and in gorgeous light!. In normal circumstances we would be delighted with one coming so close of their own accord. It was a stress free sighting and he seemed perfectly relaxed with our presence. However, this big boy then started coming a little too close for comfort, ending up just 1ft from the right hand-side of the car and stopping to look up at Andy and then I, who at this point was shooting stills out of the roof-hatch. His behavior had altered somewhat and for just a split second we had actually wandered if he was going to suddenly jump on the car! Needless to say we backed away from this big boy and this is probably the first time we have ever felt a tad uncomfortable with a Leopard so close. Needless to we stopped shooting and I sat down whilst he paused, carried on looking and and then eventually continuing on. Leopards do not ordinarily jump on cars but he exhibited some behaviors that gave us slight concern. Later we heard this this male, the Paradise male can be a little ‘tetchy’!

He then tracked into the grass and along a high ridge that was totally out of reach for us, too rocky and no tracks. So we watched from a distance before disappearing in a forested area. Surprisingly still no other cars clocked the fact that we had spotted a Leopard, complete bliss!!!

Leaving the Leopard to its own devices we then continued to track around the river, looking for the 4km males. By now it was getting warm and so we knew if they were around they would most likely be in the shade. Leaving our search for the males we headed off toward the Marsh and where we soon found the famous Marsh Pride of lions. Looking fit to burst with huge stomachs and located under a tree and in one their favorite areas. The pride were laid in two groups, we could see 2 males in one group, that apart from a short moment of movement were lying flat out making it pretty hard to ID and further along in the other group another male, who barely even moved his tail, let alone putting his head up.! 

Present among the two groups were Charm, Sienna, Mapema and their collective bundle of tiny cute cubs that have recently been born in to the Marsh pride and the offspring of the new males who took over the pride one year ago (ousting the longstanding ‘Romeo and Claude’). They occasionally moved around, trying to play with the male’s tails but instead being greeted by a low growl that meant “leave me alone I am trying to sleep”!.  Most of the lions were laid flat but we managed to also just about make out Bibi. It appeared that Scarface was missing from the group, however, this was not uncommon given he is quite often apart from the others. Later we heard that he was away from the Marsh and nearer to the West side of Rhino ridge.

By now it was nearly 12pm and these lions were moving for no-one! So we headed off back to camp.

Drawing the last few days to a close we ended the day before yesterday with quite a nice sighting of the Rekero pride, initially in the same croton as the day before but eventually moving a little further into the open and giving us the opportunity to grab a few ID shots of the 4 sub adult males (Notch off-spring). At 23 months old now they are starting to develop tufts of mane and certainly bulking up. The next generation of Notch coalition who one day may rule their own pride in the Mara.......

On the way back to camp and just before sundown we were then lucky to see a gorgeous serval cat, hunting around in the long grass. Despite being at 850mm and as the setting sun had disappeared from behind the cloud Andy managed to get a quick shot as it paused to pose before it carried on mousing!

Yesterday’s blog coming soon!........