Bogie goes bonkers

If I were to write in absolute detail about what we have witnessed in the last 24 hours I would be practically writing a dissertation. Needless to say yesterday was a crazy day! So I will try to keep to the shortened version.

The morning started with unbelievably more crossings, the wildebeest just keep on coming and with more rains over in Tanzania their thirst for heading south does not abate. The morning crossings were indeed fraught and hindered by the presence of Notch and some of his females, who in the early morning had heard the sound of the wildebeest, who had again formed in Cul De sac crossing point. Notch and the cubs soon gave up but one of 'our' lionesses (from the Mgoro pride that we are following) did not. 

To cut an incredible sighting short she launched at many of the wildebeest coming up the bank and even took down a Thomsons gazelle. In a true photographers nightmare most of these were at long range or 'conveniently' behind a bush, but that just the way it goes sometimes!

Their was a lull in the crossings until mid afternoon, the rain started and soon fell heavily on the plains and thundered echoed all around. Again the wildebeest crossed, this time the sticky mud up the banks made for the most treacherous crossing we had yet to see. It was complete carnage, wildebeest struggled and fought to climb the by high banks Sadly a huge amount perished, drowning either by the ever increasing flow of the Mara river or being caught in the frenzy as they tried to escape up the banks.

We left the crossing whilst it was still in progress and turned our attention to the Mgoro pride, who had since the morning moved further up the plains, the wildebeest were headed right in their direction. The rain pelted down and a strong wind swept over the plains. With hatch tightly closed and windows up we still wanted to see what could be happening, even through wiper blades!

What was saw in the next 20 minutes was what we never thought we would see, a lion on the rampage, driven by the adrenalin of seeing the huge herds storming from the crossing. In the space of this time one of 'our'  lionesses, (one of our 'bogie' females...named due to a scar that two lionesses have in the same position under their noses) took down 4, yes 4 wildebeest calves! The poor things had been separated from the herds and proved the ideal chance for the lioness. So, it was now time for more hunting school. The lioness simply maimed the prey, called the cubs and and then let them practice their skills and we can tell you that these cubs are extremely advanced! The technique is definitely there and their confidence seems to be building day by day. The rain pelted down and the continuing photographers nightmare of almost impossible conditions gave us a chance to absorb what we were seeing and truth be told it was hard to keep up anyway!

It was a day of mixed emotions, seeing so many wildebeest perish was not an easy thing to watch, but at the same time it was a day of seeing nature in action and the harsh reality of survival on the plains.

The thundering plains continue!

More crossings on Sept 7th.......Chaos!

The thundering plains

The beauty of self driving is most definitely the flexibility it gives us. Yesterday was the day it proved to be SO true!!. After ambling along the Talek river looking for leopard, again with little luck we headed toward Paradise plains to check out what the wildebeest and Zebra herds were doing. I don't think the words for our reaction are printable, but as we came closer to the Mara river and near paradise THOUSANDS of wildebeest were heading towards the crossings. Not just one crossing but pretty much all of them!

The only problem was we were 'technically' on the wrong side as the ultimate sighting is to get these guys coming toward you or at least a side view. Ideally we needed to be back in the Mara triangle. So, what to do? Well, within a few moments a plan had formed. There were thousands of wildebeest and these guys would take some time to cross, even though many of them had began (at around 8.30-9am). So, time to abandon 'spots and rosettes' for now (and its not like you cannot see them in the Mara Triangle!) and head back over to our favourite place.

We knew that perhaps we would probably miss the crossings but at least we were better placed as it looked like a few days of crossings may ensue. 1.5 Hours later and we were the 'right side', as we came along the river we suddenly saw a large herd looking to cross. Here we had never seen them cross before and we were totally alone!. As soon as we rocked up, parking aside to not to stop these guys from crossing, it started!. We were astounded, a crossing HERE?.....and a crossing ALONE?. Surely not! it was a great crossing. OK so not a massive herd, being hundreds rather than thousands but watching them battle the sharp current on the bend of the river was a sight to see, but always very sad to see animals lose their lives. Fortunately the carnage was not to bad, only one or two poor beesties succumbing to a floating grave. I often wander how we can sometimes watch such a spectacle whilst animals are suffering and battling to cross the river. We repeatedly tell ourselves its natures way and I guess somehow when we are photographing it causes a distraction away from any emotional thoughts.

By now it was nearly 12pm, so off we amble after an exciting 30 minutes to see the herds that had crossed into the Triangle. Words just do not describe, but to our complete and utter amazement the wildebeest were STILL crossing at the points we had seen from the other side and there were still so many wildebeest on the plains and coming though that for once I, (Sarah) was speechless.

To Cul De sac we went and witnessed total carnage, wildebeest, Zebra and a handful of Topis crossed the river and had the poor things had a really tough time getting back up the banks, there we sat and witnessed them cross for another three hours,. They had been crossing for 6 hours!! yes, 6 hours!!!! Neither of us had ever seen anything to extent before, WOW! What was also a first for us is that we even saw a few Thomsons Gazelle crossing and they looked so fragile in the torrent of the Mara. There was a distinct lack of crocs, clearly they were already full to the brim.

We had noticed on the previous evening big storm clouds developing and dumping rain over in Tanzania. Had they heard the distant roar of thunder and smelt the rain? Perhaps this was why all of a sudden the plains had just emptied and the southern plains were calling them?. Retreating back to our campsite we were exhausted and amazed. It was great to put our cameras away and just absorb the spectacle of the wildebeest migration. Of course we did fire off many memory cards, so we look forward to seeing what we have when we get home. For now here is a little taster below until we load the images on to the website.

What would tomorrow bring?

In search of spots and rosettes

Yesterday (Saturday) Andy and I decided to have a wander across to the other side of the Mara (Narok side). It seemed a sensible plan given that across the plains we could see a HUGE amount of wildebeest and lots of smaller game. So the mission was to be ‘in search of spots and rosettes’ for the next few days. The first afternoon drive was a quiet one as it always takes a day or so to reacquaint with where the game is. That’s not to say we did not have a pleasant drive and like every drive, even if it does not involves cats we always seem to see something new and interesting.

Driving along side the Talek river shortly before darkness fell we were looking high and low. It was not long until we saw a large ‘rectangular shape’ high up in the trees. It was not an eagle and it was not a vulture. It was not until we got much closer we realised we had stumbled upon a very impressive Verreaux’s Eagle owl. It was huge and a stunning sight to see. Sadly the light was dimming at this point so getting any shots was near on impossible but even so, what a fantastic sight. Our first time to see this species in Kenya.

Waking early the next morning we decided to spend some time searching for Leopard whilst they may still be on the ground. After having little luck we moved on in search of Cheetah. It was not long until we came across a mother Cheetah and two older male cubs. Clearly these guys wanted to hunt, so we decided to sit tight. We spent most of the sighting with only two or three vehicles at most and had a nice long chat with Jonathan Scott and a pleasant chap with him, working on a book on predators. 4.5 hours later and after several failed attempts to hunt 

our patience paid off and the Cheetahs finally got the nourishment they needed. Good news for the Cheetahs, however, not so lucky for the Thomson Gazelle. It was indeed a considerable distance away, too far to photograph even with every teleconverter in our arsenal mobilized! Of course we could have moved a little closer but we have seen so many hunts that have been foiled by other vehicles getting to close and alarming the prey to the cheetahs whereabouts. Putting the animal first is always our mantra, just a shame that so many people don't have the same outlook!. Nevertheless, photo or not it was a great sighting and the mother put on a considerable chase across the plains. Their impressive speed and agility never ceases to amaze us. We were rather happy that this attempt was a success as we knew that if she lost this gazelle she would have to rest for some time before trying again. 

So, all in all a successful first day in search of spots!

Wapi Duma?

As I am patiently sitting here waiting in hope for the wildebeest to again cross at 'Cul de sac' I thought a good time to catch up with today's antics.

It may have become apparent by now that Andy and I have a special place in our hearts for Notch, a cat we have followed now for 5 years. So we make no apology for YET another blog that involves Notch!

First thing this morning we could hear the unmistakable roar from Monsieur Notch and what sounded like several females at the bottom of the hill close to our campsite. It would have been rude to have ignored his call to say where he was, so at first light we ambled down and found him far across the plains, just us alone with our favourite cat! Along with the 9 cubs, 4 females they all gradually made there way closer to the road (Mgoro pride). The light was terrible for photography (as it has been since we got here!) but it was still nice to sit and watch them. The cubs, rather obligingly walked in an orderly line past the vehicle which gave me the opportunity I have been waiting for......to finally ID the sex of the all 9 cubs. So, as each one sauntered past I had the perfect opportunity and I can now confirm that the 9 cubs consist of 5 females and 4 boys.

Also present was another 'Notch son', and we were pleased to see it was the one we have not yet found on this trip. A.K.A 'Grimace', so called as he has an old injury to his lip which appears he is always 'grimacing'! Grimace has always been a little of an outcast and even looking back Notch has never allowed Grimace to get that close to the rest of the 'family' or share the same space under a tree. Today proved no exception to that rule and Notch only tolerated him as long as he kept a great distance. Careful Notch, one day you may need him!.

After some time and a failed hunt 2 of the females has spotted a small wildebeest herd in an area of tall grass, it did not take long until they had locked onto them, and soon enough one of the lionesses bursts in to attack her quarry. The herd scattered leaving one wildebeest standing steadfast, but where was the lioness though? A pair of black ear tips soon revealed she was there and being confronted head on by the Adult wildebeest. A few moments of tension ensued until Notch realised his sheer brute force was needed. Like the cavalry arriving Notch barged in, and in the next moment the wildebeest was on the ground and had succumbed to the force of the big cats.

It would be great to say we captured all on this on camera, but giving the cats had stalked the herd in long grass it was alas no go on getting any good shots, but it was nevertheless a great sighting and interesting to see Notch in action at a kill. The next few moments saw Notch dispatching the wildebeest with a strong throat hold, but not quite finishing the job, whilst the little cubs looked on in awe and hopefully taking notes for later in life!

Although he was evidently quite full we had expected him to feed a little first but unusually he passed the opportunity to feed and moved away to allow the cubs to feed (and allowed them to finish dispatching the wildebeest as Notch had not quite completed it!). Given its unusual for the male to allow the cubs to feed before him we concluded he must be so full that he need not eat. (either that or he is a genuine family man and was looking out for the kids!!) 

So, after our little distraction of lions this morning we then set upon what was to be the original plan of action for the day, looking for Cheetah. One thing we have noticed on this trip is a lack of cheetahs in this particular area, compared to normal. Yes, there is a large concentration of lions in one area, to the point that even the hyenas have moved their den. Even so, where are they?, we have chatted to some local guides who have also commented on the surprisingly low numbers at present. Andy and I love the area down by the Tanzanian border so we decided to have a recce down there as that's often where Cheetahs can be found. We were really keen to at least try and locate Sita and her (probably) now independent daughters. However, after several hours of driving we soon noticed that there was a real lack of small game, and prey for the cheetah, perhaps this one one of the reasons for their absence?. So no cheetahs today, but given its such a huge area that's of course not to say that are not there. We have heard there are several cheetah on the Narok side, but in no greater numbers than normal. In the next few days we shall try a few different areas and hope to be able to blog on some feline variety other than Panthero leo!

Whilst down at the border we also scanned far and wide to see what the wildebeest herds were doing in the distance into Tanzania. All was quiet all around so apart from those herds in the current area on bothe sides of the Mara. However, there looks to be no more big herds progressing at the moment, However, it can take only days for this to change, although given the early start of the migration we do wander how many big herds of 'wildies' can be left to come up from Tanzania? Perhaps now the migration will be centred on those existing herds in the Mara who will likely cross back and forth and go around in circles chasing the fresh shots.

Lastly before I leave this blog we saw another quite an interesting (and rather funny) sight today, not something we have seen before. A hippo, that stood on the river bank with the rest of a small pod was noticeably different from the others. It appeared that one of his large 'tusks' (incisors) was growing outside of his mouth an was obviously deformed in some way.  Quite comical (but not for the hippo) actually given it looked like a hippo had mated with a warthog! 

Oh...and by the way, the 'wildies' decided not to cross and instead will wait until tomorrow, thats the way it sometimes goes!

For now its 'la la salama' until the next installment.....

The day of the Gnu's

Sure as 'eggs are eggs' our predications yesterday of imminent large wildebeest crossings came true. A number of large herds had congregated on the plains nearer to the river overnight and by mid morning had split into many different groups, and eventually crossing at multiple points of the Mara, such as: Cul de Sac, lower and upper main crossings, all crossing over in to the Narok side of the reserve. With a lack of Zebras in many of the herds it seemed that more indecisiveness filled the wildebeest minds more than normal.

We decided to hedge our bets with the one of the lower main crossings, although it was occupied by a smaller herd it had the the better viewpoint and less vehicles there (always a good thing!). After 3 - 4 hours of procrastination, (whilst Andy and I were 'cooking on gas mark 7' in the late morning sun) the wildebeest debate as to "should we cross or shall we run around in circles for the 5th time" was finally concluded in our favour.

The communication between the herds became louder and louder until eventually the crossing eventually began. The dust that was kicked up was immense and the fast flow of the river took the wildebeest several metres of course to their exit points back up the bank. Despite the large number that congregated many did not cross, the current seemed strong and hippos blocked many of their exits. So some decided to stop, retreat and find somewhere else. At this point Andy and I were seriously in need of food and the herd that remained was of a fairly small size. We had risen at 5.30, witnessed a lion kill (although from afar and in pretty long grass), briefly seen a lioness with 3 tiny 5-6 week old cubs and finally a wildebeest crossing. If we did not retreat ourselves to cook some food we were in danger of wilting (sadly like many of the wildebeest calves are on the plains near the crossings at present)

So leaving the wildebeest to debate their next action we left, had some food and showered in camp, whilst of course keeping an eye on what the herds were doing. That was just the morning drive!

Practicing for when I grow up

As the seasons and weather patterns change in the Masai Mara it can often be a case of ‘feast or famine’ for the predators. Migration seasons is certainly a time for feasting and every morning so far has revealed a vast array of fresh carcasses from the predators nocturnal activities. Providing food for not only the carnivores but also for vultures, and the vultures certainly have their work cut out right now in keeping the plains clean and free from disease. 

Interestingly we seen to have seen more hooded vultures on this trip than previously seen on our last two trips. A good sign as recently there seemed to be a distinct lack of this species. However, still in very small numbers and it’s still a sad fact that vulture populations (including White-backed, Griffin and Lappet Faced Vultures) are being faced with the same pressures of decreasing populations as most other wildlife species. 

The lions of the Masai Mara certainly make the most of the migration as an ample food source as it passes through, and its not uncommon to see many half eaten carcasses where the cats are simply too full to finish everything they predate. However, instinct still ensures the predators take every hunting opportunity and ‘make hay while the sun shines’.

This morning we found the Mgoro pride, although minus any mighty males (this pride includes the Notch/Notch son cubs) after having feasted partially on an adult wildebeest that they had taken not long prior to our finding them. Fit to burst the lionesses and cubs lounged around with HUGE stomachs and no doubt sever indigestion! As the sun came out (briefly!) they retreated to nearby shade and panted as they slowly digested the massive amount of meat they had obviously consumed!

Later in the afternoon we returned and as the temperature cooled one of the male (Notch) cubs decided it was time for a little fun on the carcass. Whilst it appears to be great fun for the lions to play around with the lifeless mass it also serves as a great time opportunity to practice a few skills that will be needed in adulthood (although being a male he will more likely be enjoying the spills of the kill rather than partaking in the actual ‘dispatch’ of the animal!). So today was ‘practicing the kiss of death school’.  This expression always seems a little of a crude and a ‘non biological’ way to describe one of the methods in which lions will starve its prey of oxygen but is literally the way on which it is carried out. Having likely seen mum do this previously and with a degree of innate behaviour the male cub decided he would have a practice. It was hard not to have a chuckle as we watched the cub grasp the wildebeest muzzle, but for the little cub this was serious business! We caught a little of this behaviour on video and have attached below.

Back to the migration, their initially seems to be marginally less wildebeest on the plains in this area of the Maasai Mara than previous visits here at similar times of the year. This is largely due to the early arrival of the migration this year and the fact that last year the migration was unbalanced and weighted heavily in certain areas due to the terrible droughts of 2009, However, today we have began to see more large herds forming and beginning to amalgamate again and adorn the banks of the Mara river in all their glory. 

We also took a fantastic balloon ride toward the Tanzanian border yesterday and it certainly looks like more herds, albeit not yet formed into the long lines are still migrating North toward the Mara in search of rich grassland. On several occasions today it looked likely for some big crossings. However, there seemed to be more in-decision than normal at the crossing points as the herds moved from crossing to crossing without taking the final plunge. So the next few days could be interesting as they increase in numbers ready to cross the great Mara river.

Up close & personal

One of the things that Andy and I love about camping in the bush is that fact that you are totally immersed in the environment and often get to see a different perspective of the bush other than when driving around game viewing. You see and smell things that you would ordinarily drive past and get to appreciate the tiny creatures as well as the big impressive predators, as well as continually expanding your knowledge of the bush.

However, of course there is always a little more risk in camping than when staying in a lodge or a luxury tented camp, but if you are careful and have some bush knowledge camping need not be an issue. This morning proved just how careful one should be. Last night we feel asleep to the sound of a Buffalo mooching around camp, a nightjar calling and lions roaring again in the distance. Every morning when we wake we always do a 'sweep' of the camp with a torch before climbing down the tent ladder as who knows what else may have joined us in the night!.

That was just as well this morning as an old solitary Buffalo had decided to sit and chew the cud just 25 feet from our tent. Of all the big game Andy and I are always wary and very cautious of buffalo as they are so difficult to 'read' from a behaviour point of view and their lack of facial expressions give away little of their intended plans and you really don't want to get on the wrong side of these guys. You never know especially with these old Buffalo's what mood they are in as they can often be a little grumpy and moody. So not wanting to chance anything we got out of the tent, making sure the buffalo knew we were there and decided to move the vehicle another 50 feet away. Gladly and to our relief he seemed quite happy just to sit there whilst drinks were made and a quick wash before our morning drive.

For some bizarre (and stupid) reason Andy and I have forgotten to put out the remote infrared camera for the last two nights, which was a shame as we would have got some good images last night of the old buffalo around the tent. Perhaps it has something to do with the downpours we have had at night cocooning us in the vehicle!. We will definitely make sure this evening we do as barely a night goes past when we camp at this site that we don't hear some form of creature skulking around and it would be great to capture this on camera. As long as they are of the four legged variety they are always welcome in camp!

Roars and Big Paws

Our first night back was filled with roars from the plains below and the sound of a few zebra stallions snorting and munching close to our tent, together with the often comical sounds of large wildebeest herds close by. After our usual ritual of making hot drinks with a very tame Scrub Hare nibbling grass just feet away it was time to see what the day would bring.

There is a huge amount to see in the Mara and its certainly not just the predators that command our interest. However, first we had a mission that we needed to complete. We had found Notch, we had found his pride (one of them!) and we had found the cubs. BUT, there was one thing missing. What about the Notch sons?  We had seen them during our last trip in March and of course were keen to find them again. Given the tension we had witnessed between the sons and Notch earlier in the year, that started from around Dec 2009 we were keen to see for ourselves how things were fairing. (given that these lions have already broken all the 'text book rules').  

It didn't take too long to find out! Although a fair distance from where we again found Notch & Co this morning (who were feeding on several wildebeest that they had procured during the nights stormy rains) were 4 of his boys with a single lioness. It looked as if one of the boys was possibly 'coveting' the female (although we had no actual sight of this), whilst the other three laid motionless for most of the sighting, but long enough to confirm that it was the Notch sons, with the most magnificent of the sons (the one we un-originally call 'Notch Jnr') included in the 'role call'. His name contributed to his likeness to Notch in terms of build, face and mane colour. All looked well, although one of the chaps did have a superficial wound on his spine, maybe caused by an internal fight, perhaps over mating rights (again!). This was nothing to worry about and we had seen lions with worse injuries than this. Other than being a little stiff he was fine and no concerns there. We had noticed that one of the males, who was always a slight outcast was not around, this is the guy that has an old injury to his jaw causing his lip to hang slightly and we affectionately call him 'Grimace'. Again this was not a huge concern as they often go off on the 'rounds' for days and we had after all been in the Mara for less than 24 hours!

They all rested peacefully, sadly due to cloud and poor light we were unable to get any good images but attach one below for those who are keen to see 3 of these impressive guys. What will be the most interesting thing is to see how they are now interacting with the rest of the Mgoro pride and of course dad!

The rest of the day was filled with cute bat eared foxes, Notch and Co (again!) and long lines of wildebeest that are still migrating through the Mara toward the Mara river. At the risk of lion overdose it is impossible to leave todays blog without mention of Notch and his roar. Those who know Notch will know he has a distinctive gurgle to his roar and of course any lions roar sends goosebumps to your skin!. We had heard his roar, along with the females long into the night, but lucky for us to we were greeted this morning with another rendition. Albeit a slightly less powerful version that seemed to imply "Oh must I roar I am tired and I am comfortable so I will do this sitting down thanks"

Apologies for the poor quality of the video, but I thought it was rude not to include as I know there are many fans of Notch our there! Enjoy......

Notch family fun

Those of you who know Andy and I know that we have a particular soft spot for a certain 'big puss' in the Masai Mara called 'Notch', who we have followed since around 2005. Although we only saw him last in March 2010 we dearly hoped to see him again on our current trip. We certainly did not expect to see him on day 1! So today, just a few hours after entering the Mara we came across Notch, together with the females from the Mgoro pride and their 9 cubs. There he sat in all of his feline glory. Given the often high infant mortality rate of lion cubs, we were happy to see that all of the original 9 cubs are still alive and looking very well, They must now be around 8-9 months old, with 2 who appear to be possibly be a fraction older. The little cubs failed to keep still for very long which made sexing them a little hard, but there are at least 4 little males that will carry the Notch genes on and the rest are tba, we hope to have a full report on that one by the end of the trip.

Notch looked great, a little stiff in his gait but given he must now be around 13 years old not bad for an old fella. Canines still intact and surprisingly not too worn and a mane that surely cant go any darker! Truly magnificent.

The cubs had a great time frolicking around with a wildebeest tail they had found on the plains with the one of the pride pride lionesses also joining in on the fun. Simply put it was a great family moment. Notch sat and watched, reluctant to join in but tolerant (to a point) of the cubs mischievous antic's around him. In between bouts of playtime and taking rest breaks the cubs enjoyed his company and sat close by. It's always hard not to put human emotion to animals (the golden rule!) but both Andy and I could not resist the odd giggle at how cute they looked against his huge bulk and how they seemed to be enjoying the company and quality time with Notch.

The tone turned a little more serious when two buffalo approached nearby and signalled a vocal and postural signals that they were not happy of the lions presence. The remaining cubs that were present, and some of the females (some had by now retreated to the long grass for a nap further way) positioned themselves safely on a mound and watch with intense curiosity as Notch firmly positioned himself in front of cubs and warded the buffalo away. He had rapidly gone from lazing around to his role of protector of the pride. The buffalo soon moved away and Notch resumed his horizontal position as the light faded, which signalled the time for us to go back to camp and get ourselves set up for the night.

No sign of Notch's elder sons, who have now reached their prime. However, the trip is by no means over yet!

What a great day to the start our three week trip.